Get ready to dive into the captivating world of pocket watches at Phillips Hong Kong's upcoming auction! This event is a true celebration of timekeeping artistry, spanning two centuries and showcasing an incredible array of pocket watches. From the early 19th century's enamel masterpieces, crafted with precision for the Chinese market, to the 20th century's tourbillon chronometers, which dominated observatory trials, these timepieces tell a story of technical innovation and aesthetic evolution.
Lot 1086: A Chronometer's Tale
Our first highlight is Lot 1086, a tourbillon chronometer with a fascinating history. Constructed by Albert Pellaton-Favre and later sold by S. Smith & Son, this watch is a testament to the craftsmanship of the era. But here's where it gets controversial: the definition of a chronometer! The English and Swiss had differing opinions, with the English insisting on a specific escapement, while the Swiss had a more flexible approach. This lot, with its spring detent escapement and 'Especially Good' certificate, satisfies both definitions.
The Swiss Connection
While S. Smith & Son sold many tourbillons, most were locally sourced. However, this lot stands out with its Swiss movement. In fact, the London branch of Baume Frères ordered a set of tourbillon chronometers from Albert Pellaton-Favre, one of which held the record at Kew Observatory for a decade! This watch, now owned by the modern Baume et Mercier company, scored an impressive 91.9 points in 1892.
Lot 943: Patek Philippe's Triumph
Patek Philippe, a powerhouse at observatory trials, also patronized the Pellaton family. Lot 943, a tourbillon made by Albert's son, Jämes-César, in 1920, is a true masterpiece. Adjusted by Patek Philippe's master regleur, J. Golay-Audemars, this watch took first place at the Geneva Astronomical Observatory with an impressive 815 points in Class B. The larger movements in Class B often performed better, and this watch's 21"" movement and 60 mm case are a testament to its size and precision.
Technical Marvels
When comparing the S. Smith & Son and Patek Philippe watches, the technical differences are striking. The S. Smith & Son watch had a mean variation in rate of 0.3 seconds per day, while the Patek Philippe watch achieved an incredible 0.08 seconds per day. Similarly, the mean deviation between positions was lower for the Patek Philippe, at 0.85 seconds per day compared to 0.39. These watches, made to high standards in their respective eras, showcase the remarkable progress made in the early 20th century.
Lot 1011: A Chinese Market Favorite
In an auction held in Hong Kong, it's no surprise that watches made for the southern Chinese market take center stage. Lot 1011, an anonymous Swiss piece titled "Hector's Departure," is a beautiful example. The Chinese market favored center seconds hands, and English watchmaker William Ilbery, along with his mentor William Anthony, developed the calibre Chinoise to meet this demand. Ilbery's offshore movement manufacturing in Fleurier, Switzerland, and his later move there, contributed to Fleurier's reputation as a hub for Chinese market movements, with Bovet (or 播喴) being the most famous firm.
Enamel Artistry
The miniature enamel on Lot 1011 is a true work of art, almost certainly crafted by a Genevan artisan. Geneva has long been a leader in decorative arts, as evidenced by the Patek Philippe Museum's extensive collection of Chinese market watches and clocks. The enamel depicts a scene from Homer's Iliad, with Hector, the hero of Troy, bidding farewell to his family before facing the Greeks. The attention to detail, from the red flinqué enamel to the elaborately engraved and enamelled dust cover, is truly remarkable.
Lot 1092: Ilbery's Legacy
While Ilbery's calibre Chinoise was innovative, Lot 1092, an Ilbery watch from around 1810, uses a more antiquated fusee movement with small seconds and a duplex escapement. The miniature enamel painting is attributed to Jean-Louis Richter of Geneva, known for his charming "doll-like" faces and idyllic country scenes.
Lot 820 & 821: Patek Philippe's Enamel Mastery
Patek Philippe has played a significant role in sustaining Genevan enamel through the 20th century. Lot 820, painted by Suzanne Rohr, one of the firm's most famous enamel artisans, replicates a work by Genevan landscape painter Jacques-Laurent Agasse. This piece, from 1975, depicts Lord Rivers of London, and is a true testament to Rohr's skill.
Another example, Lot 821, reproduces English artist John Webber's 1784 painting "Guerriers Hawaiiens." Webber, the official artist on Captain Cook's final expedition, created numerous sketches and paintings, including the famous "The Death of Captain Cook." Marthe Bischoff, another talented enamel artist, produced this piece for Patek Philippe.
Lot 885: Piaget's Gem-Set Extravaganza
Moving away from enamel, Lot 885 is the most extravagant pocket watch in the auction, focusing on gem setting. With over 200 baguette-cut diamonds and 89 baguette emeralds adorning the case and reverse cover, this watch is a true masterpiece. The engine-turned solid gold dial is further embellished with diamonds and emeralds, and the matching chain adds even more sparkle. This watch, with its monumental display stand, debuted in 1996 in anticipation of the Hong Kong handover, and its cultural significance is undeniable.
Lot 890: Parmigiani Fleurier's Gem-Set Wonder
In terms of gem-set wonders, the Piaget has a potential rival in Lot 890, the Meccanica II by Parmigiani Fleurier. Built in the same town as the Chinese market watches from nearly two centuries earlier, Parmigiani continues to create such exquisite pieces. The Meccanica II, a follow-up to the original Meccanica, adds 25.93 carats of baguette diamonds and a seconds hand. The movement, based on a LeCoultre ebauche, is equipped with a perpetual calendar, fully visible through the sapphire dial. The abstract enamel pattern on the back is a common motif for Parmigiani watches, and this piece is an ideal display item, paired with an enamelled stand.
Preview and Auction Details
The sale and preview exhibition will be held at Phillips Hong Kong in the West Kowloon Cultural District. The preview will be open daily from November 15-23, 2025, from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm. The auction will take place on November 21, 22, and 23, at 2:00 pm each day, with sessions divided into lots. For more information and the full catalogue, visit Phillips.com.
Don't miss this opportunity to explore the fascinating world of pocket watches and their rich history!
