When I visit the Finger Lakes on the job, I often find myself in hot water.
No, it's not from drinking wine — I always take along a spit cup for times when I'm luckyenough to fit in some tasting.
The reason I get in trouble has to do withthe time it takes me to get from place to place. The wine region — named top wine region in the USA Today 10Best Reader's Choice poll in both 2018 and 2019 — is vast. It is roughly five times larger than Napa Valley in California. Because I tend to underestimate travel times when making my schedule,I have been embarrassingly tardy for afternoon appointments with winemakers.
That's why I recommend biting off the Finger Lakes in small geographical chunks; you can spend more time enjoying food, wine and recreation and less time driving (even though the drives are amazingly picturesque).
The northern part of Seneca Lake, centering around Geneva, is a great place to bite off. It is easily accessiblefrom the New York state Thruway (Interstate 90), making it a straightforwarddrivefrom many cities.
Here are my recommendations for wineries, restaurants and a few other points of interest. The wineries are listed north to south; from Geneva, you can explore the wineries on one side on one day and the otherside on the next. (Note that if you are traveling with a group of eight or more, most wineries require advance reservations.)
Northwestern Seneca Lake:
• Ravines Wine Cellars has its Seneca Lake tasting room in a beautifully renovated historic 1910 slate barn. This winery isgeared for people who are serious about wine; the highly regardedwines are mostlydry.
One weekends it offers a special Tasting Table experience, which includes a sample of its traditional methodsparkling wine, a cellar tour and a food and wine pairing; the cost is$50, not including gratuity.It is at 400 Barracks Road in Geneva, anditsentrance is on Pre-Emption Road; (315) 781-7007.
• Billsboro Wineryhas its tasting room in a beautifully restored 19th-century barn. Its wines, which are mostly dry, includesome less common wines in the region, such as Pinot gris, Sauvignon blanc and Syrah blends. It suggests music pairings with the wines — kind of a gimmick, but fun to ponder. 4760 West Lake Road (Route 14) in Geneva;(315) 789-9538.
• Lacey Magruder Vineyard & Wineryis housed in a 180-year-old weathered barn that has been restored and filled with an assortment of antique bric-a-brac. Its deck has a lovely view of the countryside and Seneca Lake. It makes a dozen or so wines, red and white, dry and sweet; I enjoyed the Bad Monkey Merlot. 462 Armstrong Road (off route 14) in Geneva, (585) 260-1850.
• Fox Run Vineyardsspecializes in European varietals, but also makes wines from hybrid and native grapes, including some best-selling sweet wines. It is one of three wineries that collaborate on Tierce Rieslings, which are worth trying if you find them on a tasting sheet.
It offers a variety of options for visitors, including tastings andin-depth tours of the vineyard and winemaking facility. On some Fridays, a food-and-wine experience is offered with a tour, lunch and flight of wines. It has a cafe that serves cheese boards, flatbread pizzas and more. 670 State Route 14 in Benton; call (315) 536-4616.
• Red Tail Ridge Winery is a52-acre vineyard and winery that grows Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Riesling grapes, as well as more obscure red varieties that grow well in cooler regions of Europe.It is owned by the husband-and-wife team of Mike Schnelle, the winery's viticulturist, and NancyIrelan, the winemaker.Irelan was named a semifinalist for the James Beard Awards in the category of Outstanding Wine, Spirits or Beer Producer earlier this year.The wineryis noted for its "green" efforts, such as its building, which uses geothermal energy for heating, cooling and refrigeration. 846 State Route 14 in Penn Yan; call (315) 536-4580.
•Anthony Road Wine Co.makes a variety of wines, mostly dry vinifera varieties, but it has a series of sweet wines. Pay a little extra to try the Tierce Rieslings, which are collaboration between the winemaking teams from Anthony Road, Fox Run Vineyards and Red Newt.Its tasting room has a gallery that presents the work of local artists and artisans.
It kicks off its harvest season each year in September with The Federweisser Festival,a family-friendly event with yard games, German food, music and Federweisser, a partially fermented, frothywine, made from the first fruits of the harvest. In 2019, it takes place from noon to 5 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 21.1020 Anthony Road (off Route 14) inPenn Yan; call(315) 536-2182.
• Kemmeter Winesis a small boutique wineryowned by renownedwinemaker Johannes Reinhardt, a native of Germany, and his wife, Imelda.Tastings arein a small tasting room adjacent to the owners' home; appointments are encouraged. Maximum group size is six people; it is closed on Sundays.1030Larzelere Road inTorrey;(315) 521-3897.
• Miles Wine Cellarsis a rarity in that its property is on the shore of Seneca Lake. It offers a variety of wines from dry to sweet; its semi-dry Ghost wine is dedicated to its otherworldly residents. It also serves refreshing wine slushies.
Its property looks like a scene fromthe South, complete witha hugeweeping willow tree and a stately columned white 1802 Greek Revival tasting room and inn. The winery has a boat dock for arrivals by boat. 168 Randall Crossing Road in Himrod; call (607) 243-7742.
NortheastSeneca Lake
• Ventosa Vineyards sits on 23 acres of vineyards and uses entirely estate-grown grapes. Its imposing, Tuscan-style buildingincludes an events spacethat can accommodate 350 guests, making it a popular place for wedding receptions. ItsCafé Toscana serves Italian-inspired fare including salads,pizzas, wraps and panini. 3440 Route 96A in Geneva; (315) 719-0000.
• Zugibe Vineyards grows11 vinifera varietals on 40 acres of land, and specializes in dry and semi-dry styles of wines. It has a small tasting room as well as a bistro thatfocuses on fare from the family's Lebanese heritage; think pita sandwiches, hummus, falafel and more.
Zugibe marksharvest season with Zugtoberfest, a festival that honors the German grape varietals that grow well in the Finger Lakes. It includes live music, German food and local beer and wine.In 2019, it takes place from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sept. 29.4248 EastLake Road inGeneva; (315) 585-6402.
• Three Brothers Winery and Estatesis akin to an adult beverage theme park; it isa magnet for bachelorette parties. Its Stony Lonesome Wine Cellars tasting room offers dry vinifera wines and a picturesque view. The complex also has a coffee shop and War Horse Brewing Co., a World War II-themed brewery and cidery. Wine slushies are served from a hut on weekends. In the back, along a dusty path and next to apond, is a bayou-themed tasting room that serves sweet wines. 623 Lerch Road, south of Geneva;(315) 585-4432.
• Boundary Breakssitson breathtaking property set high above Seneca Lake; clusters of picnic tables and Adirondack chairs are at the ready for taking it in. It even has a dog run so your pooch can join in the fun. One of the newer Finger Lakes wineries, itis attracting national attention for its Rieslings, but it also has started offering reds and rosés.1568 Porter Covert Road in Lodi (roughly midway between Geneva and Watkins Glen); (607) 474-5030.
Restaurants in Geneva NY
You will find quite a few dining options in and near Geneva. Here are some good options.
• F.L.X. Table: Guests sit together at a single communal table that seats 14. The fixed menu highlights seasonal produce, and the wine selection is incredible.It was named best new restaurant in the country in 2017. 22 Linden St.; (315) 730-3083.
• Red Dove Tavern:Cozy, casual pub. Menu of small plates, salads, sandwiches and entrees changes frequently, with local produce emphasized. Full bar focuses on co*cktails, craft beers and Finger Lakes wines on draft. 30 Castle St.;(315) 781-2020.
• Halsey's Restaurant:Open for dinner only, the menu leans Italian with wood-fired pizza, bread and entrees. Wine list includes a good selection from the Finger Lakes. First floorhas a roomy bar, while the second floor has an inviting dining room with brick walls.106 Seneca St.;(315) 789-4070.
• Ports Cafe: Popular informal restaurant on the west side of Seneca Lake, it offers a seasonal menu that has a wide range of appeal as well as a long list of specials. 4432 West Lake Road; (315) 789-2020.
• Kindred Fare:Relaxed, social eatery with a central bar, open kitchen andkitchen bar seating. It focuses on fresh, seasonal and sustainably sourced foods.The wine list allows guests to compare local and international expressions of the same varietal. 512 Hamilton St., near the Holiday Inn Express and Microtel hotels;(315) 787-0400.
• Finger Lakes Sausage and Beer:Menu focuses on an array of sausages and sides served with craft beers. Whimsical narrow space has a dachshund theme.8 Linden St.;(315) 325-4125.
•The Rusty Pig: This new restaurant that focuses on barbecue also is getting high marks for its casual fare andcraft beer list.34 Linden St;(315) 325-4548.
A few things to do
Need to take a break from food and wine? Here are a few other places to check out.
• Seneca Lake State Park,and the adjoiningLakefront Park, offer picnic areas, playgrounds, a sprayground, nature trails,beaches, disc golf course, transientboat slips andbenches for taking in the scenic lakefront.1 Lakefront DriveinGeneva.
• TheSmith Opera House dates back to1894 and was beautifully restored in the early 1990s. It has a full schedule oflive music, dance and theater performances.82 Seneca St.; (315) 781-5483.
• Red Jacket Orchards has a charming farm store withlocal produce, pastries, wines, foodsand specialty items.957 Canandaigua Road in Geneva; (315) 787-0102.
TracyS@Gannett.com
